3 Days in Naxos

Naxos, Greece

I was reaching the point of burnout from the daily grind of life and looking towards a break. I decided to go to one of the places that I’d dreamed about going for many years; Santorini. While planning the trip I came across references to the island of Naxos. I’d never heard of it before, but during my planning it became obvious that I needed to include this island in my journey. I realized as a result of my research that Naxos was more in line with my needs than Santorini. Santorini is a heavily touristed island and Naxos more laid back and family friendly. I found this to be appealing.

So, I went to Naxos.

After a short stay in Athens, to get a feel for Greece in general, my first visit to the country, I boarded the Blue Star Delos for the 5 ½ hour ferry ride to Naxos. I felt the excitement mount as we left the port at the island of Paros, as it was a short ride from there. Approaching Naxos, I kept looking for the Portara, hoping to see it in the distance as we arrived. Arriving in Naxos, the port was an organized chaos, as passengers and vehicle boarded, while other disembarked.

A Visit to the Portara

After checking into my hotel, the first thing I had in mind was a visit to the Portara. I’d read a lot about it and was keen to see it. The weather was windy, with choppy seas as I made my way over the causeway to the site. There were few people there, but I knew it was a popular spot at sunset. So, after looking around, I knew that I too would return for sunset.

The Portara and Naxos Town - Naxos, Greece

After dinner, at least by Greek standards, at the Naxian Capriccio, I went back over the causeway to the Portara and proceeded to setup for an image that I had envisioned in my mind; the town center during the “blue hour.” I knew this would be a single photo and that I would need to take several images over a period of 20 minutes.

While I was waiting, I met a couple from Brisbane, Australia, Ray and Coral. Coral is quite a photographer in her own right, so while I was shooting, I found someone to talk photography with and to share experiences with. Ray and Coral would also be on the same day bus trip with me the next day and we had a wonderful time visiting small towns and ruins and with a stop for lunch and ice cream. Normally, I travel alone, but in this case, I had someone with shared interests (travel, Australia and photography) to spend the day with. Sharing new experiences with two new friends was the highlight of the day.

Naxos Town from the Portara at Sunset - Naxos, Greece

A Day in the Islands Interior

The first stop of the day was the Temple of Demeter. Constructed of the finest marble of Naxos, this magnificent temple dates to the 6th century BC. Demeter was the goddess of grain. Her worshipers, built temples to her close to fertile areas, such as that found near the village of Sangri.

Temple of Demeter - Sangri, Naxos, Greece

It was a beautiful spring day, with wildflowers everywhere. I couldn't get enough of them; they were everywhere as far as the eye can see.

Wildflowers and Ruins at Temple of Demeter - Sangri, Naxos, Greece

Wildflowers and Ruins at Temple of Demeter - Sangri, Naxos, Greece

After a stop to visit a pottery factory, a century old olive oil press and the Vallindra Kitron distillery. Produced in the distillery is the Naxian liqueur, from the leaves of the Citron tree. We had plenty of samples of varying strength of the liqueur, each colored differently, and some for purchase.

Dining Square in Halki - Halki, Naxos, Greece

Pottery for Sale - Naxos, Greece

Next stop was lunch in the village of Filoti, but along the way we stopped at the Panagia Drossiani church. The massive earthquake that almost destroyed Santorini in 1956 also damaged the interior of this ancient church. This church dates to the 6th century A.D with marvelous paintings.

Frescoes in the Panagia Drossiani Church - Filoti, Naxos, Greece

Arriving in Filoti, we parked and walked into the town for lunch. It wasn’t a fancy lunch, in terms of food, but the company of my new found friends, Ray and Coral made it seem so. We sat and talked, then looked around the village for photographic subjects.

Lunchtime in Filoti - Filoti, Naxos, Greece

Doorway - Filoti, Naxos, Greece

Next stop was the village of Apiranthos. This is a beautiful village on a hilltop overlooking a valley. The name Apiranthos means “plenty of flowers”, which I found appropriate for the abundance of wildflowers surrounding it. The towns Venetian influence was vividly clear as we walked the marble paths through the town to the Venetian tower. One of the oldest churches on this island, the church of Panagia Aperathitissa is located near the center of town.

Church of Panagia Aperathitissa in Apiranthos - Apirathos, Naxos, Greece

Waiting for Customers in Apirathos - Apirathos, Naxos, Greece

It was time to return to the main town on Naxos where the tour started, with stops to visit the Statue of Kouros in Melanes and a view of the marble quarry. Arriving where we started it was time to say goodbye to my new found friends and return to my hotel. As I previously talked about in my visit to Bruges, I had a knee that caused me a great deal of pain, and it was still a problem on this trip. I was in too much pain to be able to visit with them after we returned.

Last Day

My last day in Naxos was a quiet day, I walked the beach and visited a small church at the end of St. Georges Beach (Agios Georgios). I sat and listed to the calming influence of the ocean. Later that day, it would be time for another ride on the Blue Star Delos to the island of Santorini.

Church at St George Beach - Naxos, Greece

Thoughts on Returning

While I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Santorini, I would have to say that Naxos was my favorite. Where Santorini is beautiful with a stunning view, it's also very busy. Naxos is quiet and laid back; much more befitting my needs at the time.

I visited in early May, so it was a bit before the main tourist season. Many of the shops, especially the beach side one, either weren't open, or opened quite late. I also noticed, that many of the shops would close around 2 pm and reopen by 6 pm.

I stayed at the Naxos Resort Beach Hotel, and all my travel arrangements were done by Fantasy Travel in Athens, whom I highly recommend; the next time I go back to Greece, they will be my first stop for travel arrangements.