A Walk Through Plaka

Athens, Greece

Clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, bounded by Syntagma to the east and Monastiraki to the north, lies the historical neighborhood of Plaka. Built on top of the residential ruins of the Ancient Agora, characterized by labyrinthine streets and neoclassical architecture, with a full range of archaeological treasures and shopping.

I arrived in Athens midday on a Sunday, Easter Sunday, for my first visit to Greece. After checking into my hotel, I knew where my first stop needed to be; Plaka. I’d read so much about it that I had to see it for myself. Being that it was Easter Sunday in Greece I wasn’t sure if I would find much open. I needed have been concerned though; walking along a pedestrian street many of the local restaurants were roasting lambs over open coals, preparing for the holiday evening meal.

Walking through Plaka, my focus was primarily on seeking the familiar and the new. The familiar meant looking at the variety of restaurants, looking at their menu, to get an idea of prices and what they were serving, and the various types of tourist goods offered. The unfamiliar where the historical monuments and buildings that I passed.

Plaka is a visual marketplace as well as a physical one, all rolled into a district of historical buildings. Walking through its labyrinth of alleyways and streets I repeatedly stopped to look and admire the items for sale; articles of clothing, including hats, leather goods, and Greek style dresses, jewelry, lotions, as well as many products depicting Greek culture; masks, and calendars.

One of the things about Plaka that I like most is the variety of restaurants and tavernas lining the streets. The food in Greece is simply delicious, and each has its own unique way of preparing and presenting the food. While I'm not a food critic by any means, like most people I know what I like when it comes to eating. It's also the atmosphere that appeals to me; sidewalk tables, under the afternoon or evening sky with a cool breeze, make for an enjoyable couple of hours (and the Greeks take a long time to eat!).

I even managed to find a Starbucks in Monastiraki along the area just bordering Plaka.

Athens is an open-air museum, and Plaka is no exception. Overlooking the neighborhood is the Acropolis. As you walk the streets you may come upon more remnants of ancient Greece, but my favorites were the Tower of the Winds and the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates. Hadrian's Arch is nearby, but as it is located on a major roadway, it’s not very photogenic.

The Tower of the Winds or the Horologion of Andronikos Kyrrhestes is an octagonal marble clocktower in the ancient Roman Agora. Along the top of the tower are frieze depicting the eight wind deities—Boreas (N), Kaikias (NE), Apeliotes (E), Eurus (SE), Notus (S), Lips (SW), Zephyrus (W), and Skiron (NW) - there are eight sundials.

What I liked most about this ancient treasure is its location with a field of broken columns, what I believe to be Doric Pillars, with the Acropolis on the hill looking down.

The Monument of Lysicrates is the best-preserved choragic monument in Athens. Wealthy men of the community sponsored theater competitions each year, and the sponsor of the winning performance won a trophy. The monument commemorates the award of first prize in 335/334 BCE, to Lysicrates, a wealthy patron of musical performances. Placed on top was the bronze trophy on top for everyone to see.

Plaka itself is quite small in area, and most people find they can get the most out of the area in a single afternoon. However, I found the area to be most fascinating; I have an inward love of ancient Greek and Roman ruins and find their juxtaposition with the tourist shops and restaurants to be visually exciting. As a result, I spent two afternoons exploring the area.

As I mentioned in a previous article, “The Charm of Bruges”, I was having trouble with a very painful knee, which continued throughout my trip to Greece. I continued to walk and enjoy, in spite of the pain and lack of mobility.