In Prague's Old Town Square

Sun Oct 15, 2017Cities
Prague, Czech Republic

Prague's Old Town Square is vibrant and a hive of activity, with people laughing, and enjoying themselves and vendors in their kiosks. The mixture of baroque and gothic architecture of the square surrounding can make it feel like you've just taken a journey back in time, 600 or 700 years.

I can still feel the sense of awe that I felt the first time that I entered Old Town Square. Of course, I had read multiple guidebooks and knew what to expect, but it wasn't until I entered the square for the first time that I realized how inadequate those descriptions were. I was obviously not alone in feeling this, I could see it in others around me; the way they pointed out the buildings and edifices to others around them, and I could almost feel their excitement through their choice of selfie backgrounds.

Prague's Old Town Square (Staromestské námestí) dates from the 12th century and started life as the central marketplace, and over time Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic style buildings were erected around its center. Winding lanes lead from the square into other parts of the Old Town, with restaurants lining the edges of the square, served by the hotel behind them.

The elegant tower of the Town Hall with the world famous astronomical clock, the proud silhouette of the fairy tale Týn Cathedral (while not actually in the square, towers above it) and the monumental St. Nicholas' Church (completed in 1735) anchor the square.

Excitement and Activity

I seems like everywhere I travel, the street performers are there, vying for attention, and perhaps a few coins for their efforts; Prague was no different. This Tin Man performer seemed to be much more active than many I've seen as I watched him change positions several times, sometimes not more than a few inches. He would move and someone would drop a coin or two into the silver box at his feet, then he would move and more coins would come his way.

Tin Man Street Performer front of St. Nicholas's Church in the Old Town Square.

Discover the night

At night the square takes on a different atmosphere. Entering the square from the Town Hall side I stopped dead in my tracks at sight before me. The fairy tale Týn Cathedral (Church of Our Lady before Týn) had its four 265 ft. (80m) towers highlighted by spotlights from the nearby buildings, giving it a fairy tale, almost mystical look, as it towered above the square.

Fairy Tale Týn Cathedral after dark in the Old Town Square is perhaps the most impressive of Gothic religious buildings in Prague.

The Old Town Square at night is a hive of activity.

I wonder if I was the only one it the square that was awed by the display of lights on the buildings. Most of the people in the square seemed to be just coming and going and no one seemed to stopped and taking in the view. It leaves me to wonder why.

Baroque Architecture and More

In the 19th century, Swiss critic Heinrich Wolfflin defined baroque architecture as "those works in which certain specific characteristics were to be seen: the use of movement, whether actual (a curving wall, a fountain with jets of water forever changing shape) or implied." Heinrich Wolfflin's description of baroque architecture describes the buildings lining the square perfectly.

I returned to the square early the next morning to revel in the architecture and to photograph the square as it comes to life. Early mornings, the stores and restaurants lining the square take in their days supply, and it's at this time of day when few tourists are about and you can see the people who live and work in Prague's old town begin their day.

Early Morning, Baroque Architecture in the Old Town.

Early Morning, Baroque Architecture in the Old Town.

It was a cool morning, most of the people in the square were bundled up. It felt great to walk through the square, coffee in hand, photographing the buildings in the early morning light.

Manufaktura Storefront in the Old Town.

In this storefront, some of the elements of baroque architecture can be seen, with it's flowing lines and ornate balconies.

Starbucks Here Too!

If you thought you could get away from Starbucks, think again. Starbucks has a location in the Old Town Square. So, it's possible to get your daily latte and pumpkin muffin fix while marveling at the architecture of the square. Since there are multiple Starbucks locations within the Old Town area of Prague, so you are never too far away from one. 😁

Starbucks in the Old Town Square.

I have written about Starbucks from a number of cities, but that's not to say I don't like to enjoy sitting in a local cafe somewhere, enjoying their coffee. What I like about Starbucks is the way the store fits in, architecturally, wherever it is located, and the coffee is consistent from store to store, country to country. I'm not a coffee snob by any means, but I do like good coffee.

Discover the Ornate

The ornate Town Hall is complex of buildings from various historical periods and a tower with the famous Astronomical Clock. During my visit, the Clock Tower was covered with scaffolding, undergoing major restoration work, although the Astronomical Clock was not covered. Large crowds of people would regularly gather in front of the clock to watch it as it moved through its hourly cycle.

Birds at Prague City Hall in the Old Town Square.

House at the Minute (Dum U Minuty) in Old Town Square.

Memories and Thoughts of Return

I can't conceive of not returning to the Old Town Square in Prague. Long after leaving, the photos and memories of the short time I was there continue to linger, along with the things undone; to sit and enjoy the wonderful Czech beer and a sumptuous meal at one of the many restaurants lining the square. Just watching the people as they too enjoyed all that the square had to offer.

When I read the blogs of other travelers who've visited Prague, I can see how they too often longed in their writings to return. While it's true that I can say this of many of the wonderful places I've been fortunate to visit, somehow Prague seems extra unique and special.

Update: 06/15/2018 - I have booked a return trip to Prague this fall, once was not enough.


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